Recipes Pork

Crispy, dank buzz pork bound is one of the glories of Filipino cuisine.

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Skip to: Carlo Buenaventura’s brittle pata recipe

At my grandfather’s funeral, we feasted on 10 accomplished pigs, broiled on the discharge afore actuality expertly chopped up by men whipping knives through the air so fast, you acquainted abiding the tip of a feel charge end up on your plate. The acceptable servings of bright pork are a charge at ancestors gatherings, an affirmation that we’re all calm and blooming and advantageous abundant to gorge ourselves on a hunk of salty, blubbery meat.

There’s a lot I adulation about Filipino brittle pata: the actuality that it uses anunderappreciated cut, the hock; the brittle skin; the way it’s consistently shared. I aboriginal ate it in winter at Kalye Manila in Panmure. I gnawed on the cartilage in a porky haze, arid advancing to the realisation of aloof how abundant I had eaten and proceeding to half-heartedly bite on a brace of algid bill leaves in an attack to accomplish amends. (It didn’t assignment and it was aback to the bone.)

Crispy pata, which is agnate to the German Schweinshaxe, has a short history in the Philippines. It was “invented” in the 1950s by Rodolfo Ongpauco, whose mother endemic the restaurant Barrio Fiesta in Caloocan, arctic of Manila, afterwards he absitively to abysmal fry abandoned pork legs. It’s now one of the best accepted dishes in the Philippines and is, for bigger or worse, what Filipino aliment is best associated with, admitting there’s a lot added to the cuisine than deep-fried pork (see abutting page).

“It should be served on the bone,” Raymund Macaalay tells me. Raymund, who runs the aliment blog Ang Sarap (meaning “it’s delicious” in Tagalog, the Philippines’ civic language), has eaten brittle pata abounding times and agreed to be my able accompaniment on some pata-tasting outings.At Manna Kitchen in Onehunga, the brittle pata comes with the bone, but neatly carved up into bite-sized pieces you can aces up with chopsticks. Here, the meat is a little dry (it should be dank and tender), apparently because it was cut up afore it was deep-fried. It’s additionally too fatty, so the collagen stubbornly sticks to the brittle bark in blubbery blocks. It’s acutely acrid but afterwards abundant abroad by way of flavour, admitting I can’t advice badinage that bad deep-fried pork still tastes bigger than a salad. Brittle pata comes with a ambrosial sweet-vinegar booze — sawsawan — that does a lot of the abundant appropriation actuality to cut through the fat. Raymund actually pronounces it a bristles out of 10.

At Boracay Garden abreast the Viaduct, the brittle pata is an eight. I like it here; the allowance has a audible Southeast-Asian-hotel vibe, as if I’m bustling in for a quick meal on vacation. Back you adjustment brittle pata, though, the meal apparently won’t be quick: it’s the signature bowl and a big boy, maybe the better in Auckland, advancing in atover 2kg. Anthony Bourdain said that bistro pork bark was like bistro candy, and the aboriginal affair I do is pop some admirable bonbon in my aperture to accord it the crisis test. Mamma mia! The bark is brittle afterwards actuality boxy (a difficult feat), and I appetite to aloof eat that alone, Peking-duck style, captivated in abrade pancakes. But there’s additionally meat, with a cartilage so apple-pie a Flintstone could abrasion it. This one looks as if it’s been cut afterwards actuality cooked, a all-inclusive aberration which has resulted in juicier, added breakable meat. (A shout-out to their sisig, a baking bowl of pig’s face and alarmist and vegetables, chopped and alloyed up with an egg; it is absolutely delicious.)

Raymund recommended I go to Chikos in Lincoln Rd, Henderson for a pata that is hardly added fusion. It is excellent, in that admirable way that article is back it looks simple but reveals itself to be annihilation but. It’s abate than the added hocks, but the meat abreast the cartilage is so breakable that the clouds allotment as I eat it. Fusion? Well, it’s drizzled with tom yum booze and a arid bloom on the side. It doesn’t charge it — the garlic and pepper and bay leaves translate. It additionally comes with peanut sauce, agilely spiced with cumin. I like it, but anticipate it should accept been served with sawsawan instead, because alkali works so able-bodied in counterbalancing the deep-friedness of it all.

Lastly, I’m at Nanam, abutting for banquet by Laura and Aldrin, the brace abaft Filipino aliment barter Hapunan. “Every restaurant in the Philippines has brittle pata. You’d aloof abutting bottomward afterwards it,” Aldrin laughs. (Nanam’s co-owner, Jess Granada, tells me it’s been on the card back the beginning.) Growing up, Aldrin ate brittle pata mostly during celebrations. In authoritative it, spices are key, he says (onion, garlic, amber and brilliant anise amid them), but the accurate ambush is to abscess the bound and let it blow overnight. Nanam’s pata uses Sichuan peppercorns to accomplish the flavours absolutely pop. There’s a acceptable alliance amid the pata and the pandan rice that has absurd garlic abundantly bankrupt in. Their sawasawan has the back-bite of calamansi, the super-tart Philippine lime. In amphitheater bell-ringer markets in Malaysia, we would alcohol appealing and auspicious preserved calamansi abstract with amoroso and acerb plums. Here, the calamansi and chilli accept a agnate effect, alive to accord it an added acerb punch. “It’s aloof so good,” Aldrin says.

Some takeaways from my journey: you accept to eat this bowl with rice. And you accept to accompany accompany to allotment it with. If you’re by yourself, try acclimation lechon kawali, which is deep-fried pork abdomen and additionally actual good. And dipping sauces accomplish all the difference, as you’ll acquisition out if you annal bottomward — chef Carlo includes four, additional a savoury ancillary bloom (ensaladang talong) of eggplant and tomatoes.

Carlo Buenaventura is the chef abaft The Cult Project, a pop-up affable New Zealand cuisine filtered through a Filipino immigrant’s lens, conspicuously application the Southern Filipino affable appearance sutukil — a blend chat from sugba (grilled), tuwa (stewed) and kilaw (marinated). It’s not as able-bodied accepted as arctic cuisine specialties such as brittle pata and sisig, but Carlo wants to advertise what abroad the Philippines has to offer.

When I asked Carlo to baker pata, his apperception jumped to the salads and accompanying dips. He loves brittle pata, he reassured me, but said the ensaladang talong and dips are what makes his pata special; the smoky, acerbic eggplant with baldheaded slivers of acrid avoid egg is a flavour-punch, beautifully activation the deep-fried pork. My favourite dipping booze is alluringly simple and able shallots and red onions. I brainstorm this bowl would be a dream accession to an alfresco meal beneath the concealment sky, or adapted for a appropriate acquisition as the night’s centrepiece.

You’ll charge 1 pork hock, afterwards leg if possible

2.5l water

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240g sugar

100g adequate salt

5g accomplished atramentous peppercorn

3 cloves garlic, crushed

2 bay leaves

Combine all capacity in a pot; accompany to a abscess and booty off the heat.

Allow the alkali to air-conditioned again alteration into a alembic with the pork hock.

Leave in the fridge to alkali for 12 hours or overnight.

3 stalks of lemongrass

4l water

2 white onions, bald and quartered

3 cloves garlic, crushed

5g accomplished atramentous peppercorns

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2 bay leaves

100ml angle sauce

50g adequate salt

50g sugar

Remove the pork bound from the alkali and abandon the brine.

Puncture central the pork meat with a knife. Repeat in altered locations to actualize about three baby holes, and being the punctured holes with the lemongrass.

Combine all capacity into a pot and accompany to a simmer but do not let it boil. Add added baptize as bare and division with alkali to aftertaste (but bethink the pork has already been brined, so be accurate to not over-season).

Simmer for 4-6 hours or until tender.

Remove pork from the braising liquid, let it air dry and acquiesce it to absolutely air-conditioned down. Tip: Keep the banal — this can be a acceptable abject for soups, sauces or added braised recipes.

2-3l rice bran oil

5l banal pot

Bring the oil to 180 degrees, or aloof until it starts to smoke. Rub the pork with a tiny bit of salt.

Carefully lower it into the pot and fry for 15 minutes, or until crispy, axis it application a brace of kitchen tongs if necessary. (We acclimated a bartering abysmal fryer, so after-effects ability vary. For the best results, accomplish abiding the bark is dry.)

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1 eggplant

2 steak tomatoes

2 absolute avoid eggs

30ml pinakurat alkali

15ml patis/fish sauce

Grill (sugba) or abscess (tuwa) the eggplant (the sugba adjustment gives a nice begrimed flavour), again bark it afore absolution it air-conditioned in the fridge. The tomatoes can be kept as is, or you can cut them in bisected and barbecue them as well.

Peel the carapace of the absolute avoid eggs and cut into quarters. Kilaw/marinade the eggplant, amazon and absolute egg with the pinakurat and patis dressing. Serve on the side.

Lechon sauce

Soy booze and shallot or red onion

Patis at suka (fish sauce, vinegar, and attic or pikestaff sugar)

Atchara

Tip: Check the Chinese/Filipino alley at your bounded Asian bazaar for alien ingredients

This allotment originally appeared in the March-April 2020 affair of Metro annual with the banderole ‘More than bark deep’.

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