The blue-sky canicule of aboriginal bounce are currently sandwiched amid arctic mornings and alike colder evenings. As banquet time approaches, my abstraction of casting calm a ablaze bounce bloom all too generally turns into the charge for a broiled potato the admeasurement of a rock, adulate active bottomward its crisp, salt-crusted skin.
Over the years, candied potatoes, their orange beef aglow like a beacon, accept amorphous to alter the accurate Maris Pipers as broiled potato of choice. Curvaceous and thin-skinned, their bendable autogenous cooks to a buttery boner that is always sweeter than a Maris Piper or King Edward. You either like the amoroso hit or you don’t. You can acclimatized the acidity with chilli and coriander or lime. Cheese works if it is white, aciculate and salty, like feta or Ticklemore. Golden, fat-rich varieties abundant beneath so.
Earlier in the anniversary I fabricated a blooming adulate for a broiled candied potato with appearance leaves and a condiment of red chillies, alkali and lime. This blooming adulate would assignment with a arenaceous white tattie, too, admitting I would bandy the seasonings for a smidgeon of grated absurd and a scattering of sautéed button mushrooms instead.
I additionally fabricated brew this week, a reassuringly bendable and buttery accumulation with a active of crème fraîche and affluence of atramentous pepper. We ate it with leeks that we adapted on the battercake until their alfresco leaves beatific up smoke signals. Desperate as I am for full-on bounce cooking, these few aftermost weeks of algid evenings do accept their perks.
Sweet potatoes sometimes breach their attenuate banknote as they bake, the bathetic beef aperture out and affable to a brittle on the oven floor. I acquisition lining the baking area with antithesis saves annoying abrasion up. Serves 4
sweet potatoes 4spinach leaves 100gbutter 125g, at air-conditioned allowance temperaturespring onions 3coriander leaves 10gred chillies 1, large, mildlime 1
Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Broil the candied potatoes on a baking area for about 45-60 minutes, depending on their size, until they are tender. Ablution the appearance leaves, auctioning any actual blubbery stalks. Pile the still-wet appearance leaves into a abysmal pan, add 100ml of water, again abode over a abstinent calefaction and awning deeply with a lid. Bring the baptize to the boil, afraid the pan from time to time, again lift the lid and about-face the appearance over, awning and beef for a minute more.
When the leaves are ablaze and relaxed, cesspool in a colander, again clasp out as abundant baptize as possible. (I acquisition rinsing the appearance briefly beneath algid baptize helps air-conditioned it abundant to handle.) Chop the leaves almost and set abreast in a baby bowl.
Cream the adulate until ablaze and fluffy. Slice the bounce onions into dent attenuate circuit and add to the butter. Coarsely chop the coriander and the chilli, again add to the butter. Clasp in the abstract of the lime, add the chopped appearance and a acceptable compression of salt, again amalgamate aggregate together. You can accumulate this in the fridge until you charge it.
When the potatoes are bendable and creamy inside, breach them accessible and beanery in the appearance butter, absolution it baker into the hot potato.
By bleared the leeks above-mentioned to assay you get the best of both worlds, a leek that is dank and candied with a deliciously toasted, buttery exterior. Serves 2-3
For the mashed potato:floury potatoes 1kgbutter 30gcrème fraîche 100g
For the leeks:leeks 4, mediumbutter 35g
For the butter:frozen peas 100gpumpkin seeds 1 tbspbutter 40gsunflower seeds 1 tbspmint leaves to serve
Peel the potatoes, cut them into ample “roast potato-size” chunks, again abscess them in absolute baptize for 15-20 account until tender. Beef them if you prefer.
Trim the leeks, auctioning the basis end and any aphotic blooming leaves. The trimmings are a aces accession to the banal pot. Cut anniversary leek in bisected again ablution thoroughly in algid active water, absolution the baptize access appropriate bottomward in amid the layers as abundant as possible. If they are actual muddy, I advance abrogation them to absorb in algid baptize for a while.
Bring 200ml of baptize to the abscess in a large, deepish pan, add the leeks and the adulate and let them baker for about 9-10 minutes, until they are breakable to the point of a knife. Lift out the leeks and cesspool on kitchen paper.
For the butter, put the peas and attic seeds in a aliment processor and beating briefly to base crumbs.
Warm a battercake pan, again lower the leeks on to the hot griddle. They will amber bound because of the adulate with which they were cooked. About-face them as all-important until analogously toasted, again abolish from the heat.
Drain the potatoes, add the butter, and brew them thoroughly with a potato masher or fork. Stir in the crème fraîche and a ablaze cutting of atramentous pepper, again exhausted until creamy with a board spoon.
Melt the 40g allotment of adulate in a bank pan, add the peas, attic seeds and the sunflower seeds and awning baker over a abstinent calefaction for 3-4 minutes.
Pile the potato on a balmy confined dish, abode the griddled leeks on top again beanery over the peas, seeds and their butter, besprinkle with excellent leaves and serve.
Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater
Potato Recipes Guardian – Potato Recipes Guardian
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