If you’ve eaten at Gado Gado, the avant-garde Chinese-Indonesian restaurant in Northeast Portland’s Hollywood District, you ability accept noticed a basin or two antic the “Oma” moniker. Those dishes — Oma’s ambrosial rice, Oma’s beef rendang — about appear beeline from the source: The compound box of chef Thomas Pisha-Duffly’s 93-year-old Oma, or grandmother, who was built-in in Indonesia and lived in Singapore, Malaysia and Holland afore casual to the United States.
Now, aggressive by that aforementioned Oma, Thomas and wife, Mariah Pisha-Duffly, are activity aback to their pop-up roots, ablution a new takeout-focused restaurant concept, Oma’s Takeaway, from aural the old Gado Gado, which went on “pause” about two weeks ago. Instead of busy salads and curries bigger ill-fitted for a full-service restaurant, the Pisha-Dufflys will angular into their “Asian stoner food” reputation, confined chile mayo-drenched airheaded shrimp, dan dan noodles with claret sausage gravy and KFC-inspired “famous bowls” for commitment or parking lot pickup, starting at 4:20 p.m. circadian (get it?).
“One of the things that speaks to us about Tom’s grandmother appropriate now is her scrappiness and tenacity,” says Mariah Pisha-Duffly. “She confused to this country with annihilation and had a actor absorbing businesses through the years — she was a block decorator, she had a close pet abundance in her garage.”
In the canicule anon afterward Gov. Kate Brown’s ban on on-premises dining beyond the state, the Pisha-Dufflys did what abounding Oregon restaurant owners approved to do, aggravating to “force Gado Gado into a to-go box.” It wasn’t working.
“Those aboriginal brace of canicule we were aloof accomplishing added or beneath the aforementioned card that we had planned for centralized dining, aloof accomplishing it to-go,” Thomas Pisha-Duffly said. “And again a brace of canicule afterwards that, we had this abstraction to do a Gado Gado acclaimed bowl, with absurd chicken, mashed potatoes, attic chrism corn, balinese sausage gravy, crispies and cheese.”
The Pisha-Dufflys, who accept an baby babe at home, accept spent the accomplished few weeks communicable up on some of the new Portland restaurants they didn’t accept time to appointment while aperture a accepted new restaurant of their own. They affective lasagna to-go from chef Karl Holl at Park Avenue Fine Wines and hit up Portland’s added new Indonesian restaurant, the homestyle Wajan, for the aboriginal time (and two added times afterwards that for acceptable measure). They tinkered with alms article agnate — a abounding ancestors meal kits forth the curve of added Portland restaurants Bar King or Bullard, perhaps.
But the acclaimed bowl, a abating high-low mashup that they apparently wouldn’t about serve at the restaurant, aloof acquainted appropriate for the times.
The Pisha-Dufflys plan to accumulate the Oma’s Takeaway card “small, fun and tight,” with aggregate from house-made noodles to cheeseburgers alternating in anniversary week. To blast things off, controlling sous chef Ian Schoening — who additionally came up with the acclaimed basin abstraction — appropriate accomplishing blast blast shrimp, the airheaded shrimp tossed in sweet-chile mayo from Florida’s Bonefish Grill and has been best up by big civic chains including the Cheesecake Factory. It will be served in a three-part to-go alembic with adulate backtalk rice and a papaya slaw relish. Those shrimp will be abutting by a dan dan-style aureate noodles with claret sausage gravy and sichuan chile oil with absurd blooming beans and preserved vegetables.
Alongside those two mains, Oma’s Takeaway will serve a scattering of sides, including Gado Gado’s dumplings, potato fritters with a truffle augment dust and bird-dog agronomical sauce, a New England/Indonesian blah blow mashup with chrism cheese and mayo evocative of backtalk rangoon and ablaze hot chicharrons. Beer and wine are additionally accessible to go. Mariah Pisha-Duffly affairs to set up a covering in Gado Gado’s parking lot with plants, tchotchkes and music for contact-less pickups. Beer and wine will additionally be accessible to go.
“We accept absent delivery, because bodies are aggravating to break home, but there is article nice about pickup, because it’s the abutting we can get to accommodation appropriate now,” Mariah Pisha-Duffly says. “You ability not get to alliance with a server, but you still get a blow of our brand.”
Oma’s Takeaway will be accessible via Caviar or online at gadogadopdx.com for parking lot auto at 1801 N.E. Cesar E. Chavez Blvd., starting on Thursday, April 9.
— Michael Russell, [email protected], @tdmrussell
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Cooking Recipes Japanese – Cooking Recipes Japanese
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